Hyderized!

Day 79 – Friday, August 30

We woke up to rain today….but by noon the sun had come out, and the weather was great for a city tour of Stewart, BC.  With only 6 streets, I couldn’t understand how this tour would last 3 hours, but it did!!  Our tour guide filled us in on so much interesting stuff about the area.   Stewart is known for its snow and has the BC record snowfall of 99.9 ft of snow!!   Snow is a benefit in this area, as people come from all over to enjoy Ski-doing (snowmobiling) and Heli-skiing (where they take you to the mountain in a helicopter and drop you off and you get down the best way you can!)  They also shovel a lot of snow each winter! 

We saw the oldest house in Stewart…an 1898  log cabin of one of the prospectors/settlers in the area. 

Hyder/Stewart is on a fiord (formed by a glacier) and has a deep water port that is used for industrial use.  They load 17,000 truckloads of lumber each year on boats (it goes to China).  Every day, 365 days a year, there are 9 truckloads (triple trailers) of ore delivered to the port from the local mines and loaded on boats.  This port is used because (1) it is closer than other ports, and (2) there is no wait…they are not busy enough to create a backlog! 

Many of the homes are from the 1900’s and 1920’s and have been preserved.  Some have been moved from the waterside location, due to floods, but preservation is a key here.  It makes it a quaint little town.  Every home has a generator, since electricity is unpredictable.

There are 70 kids in the entire school.  Last year there was 1 in the graduating class.  This year there will be 3!

While on the tour, our guide pointed out a “new-looking” log cabin-type structure, surrounded by beautiful gardens.  She said it was a photographer who moved here a few years ago and was building his “retirement home” along with a studio.   About that time, he appeared in the doorway and gave us a tour of his cabin, and the guest house.  WOW!  (I have lots more stories about him, but not room here.)  He can look out one side of his place and see a glacier, and out another window is a waterfall…simply beautiful!

 

We had a delicious dinner in Hyder, Alaska at the Glacier Inn, and got Hyderized!   It’s a local tradition for visitors to  drink a shot of 150 proof alcohol. You have to sit at the bar, and they pour a shot out of a bottle covered with a brown paper bag so you won’t know what it is.   They give you a little speech saying you can’t smell it or sip it, you have to take it in one gulp and  if it comes back up, you have to buy a drink for everyone at the bar!!  They give it to you with a glass of water for a chaser.  After you drink it, they pour any residue out of the glass onto the bar and light it!  Then they give you a certificate to say you’ve been Hyderized!!  --Just had to do it…I have my certificate!!  (Jim and Bernadette refrained so that they could take pictures!) 

 

PS.  Happy Birthday today to Tom—the best son in the world!!  Can’t believe it’s been 34 years since that little guy came into this world!

Stewart or Hyder?

Day 78 – Thursday, August 29

We had a beautiful drive this morning to Stewart/Hyder.  That is Stewart, British Columbia and Hyder, Alaska, but they are referred to as the same place!!   Stewart is named for its first postmaster, and Hyder is named for a mining engineer who helped establish the area.  You have to carry your passport around with you because you cross back and forth across the US/Canadian border!  There is no US customs station, but there is a Canadian station when you return from Hyder.   Hyder calls itself “the friendliest ghost town in Alaska.”

We left early this morning from Iskut, hoping to see bears who normally hang out on the roadside along the way, but failed to spot any of them.  But, we did see some glorious scenery--More mountains, glaciers, rivers, and lots of evergreen trees.  There was a fog hanging halfway around the mountains, which created a mystical view as we drove through.

 

The glaciers seem to be everywhere you look.  One came right down to the water along the road, as you can see from this picture out the front window as we drove by. 

I continue to be amazed by the remoteness of this area, and wonder why people landed where they did, and how they survive the winters, and the periods without the tourists and caravans coming through.   I’ve asked various locals what brought them here and many said they came for a visit, and found it so beautiful, they came back to live.  It just seems hard to think about having to drive a couple of hours for supplies and food.  --No Walmarts, Tuesday Morning or Talbots close by!

Last night we had dinner in the campground dining room, and were served by kayakers from around the world who had come to experience the challenge of the Iskut River and Iskut Lake.  They were kayakers from Spain, New Zealand, France, Tasmania and New Guinea.  They each introduced themselves and explained why they enjoyed the area.  One of them described it as the “Everest” of kayaking.  After dinner and entertainment by fellow caravaners, we had a big campfire.

 

 

 

 

 

I got up twice to see if I could see the Aurora Borealis.  The skies were full of stars, and dark and beautiful, but no Northern Lights.  I stayed out about 15 minutes, but it was almost too quiet, the trees and mountains seemed to be in the way, and then I was afraid the bears might find me, so I opted not to get back up later in the night!

This evening we went looking for bears at Fish River, on the Hyder side of Stewart/Hyder.  There is a viewing platform built along a stream, and you are able to stand and watch the salmon below, and then watch the bear come out for a snack!  We went in the evening because we heard the bears come out to eat.  After watching for awhile, we saw the bushes move, and a bear ran out, sniffed around, and then ran back into the wooded area.  But, at least we got to see one.  We thought we saw two more in the bushes, but they never came out for pictures.  It is an interesting place, and we will probably go back for another try at bear watching. 

Along the Cassiar to Iskut

Day 77 – Wednesday, August 28

The travels today along the Cassiar Highway were interesting…we saw a bald eagle and two ptarmiganins.  (I think we ran over one of them that was sitting in the middle of the road!), but no other wildlife.  The road was hardly two lanes wide, and bumpy, winding, hills, and full of gravel; no shoulders, and no centerlines. Thankfully there wasn’t a lot of traffic.  But is was very scenic--we passed more “mirror” lakes, and a dormant volcano—Mt. Edziza, and you could actually see it's cone. 

We arrived at Iskut, a small native community along the highway.

We said good bye to the Yukon for the final time, as we crossed into British Columbia.

 

A great stop on the way was Jade City.  This city of 50 people came about as a commercial outlet for the jade mined from the nearby mountains.  The Cassiar mountains supply about 92% of the world’s jade!!!  (that was an amazing fact to me). We were able to watch the miners cutting up the stone. They had a lot of things on display and plenty of things to buy as well.   I bought something you probably can’t find anywhere else….a jade doorstop!!  (Doesn’t everyone need one of those?)

We arrived at Tatogga Lake RV Park, and everyone discussed having a toga party, but decided on a mosquito net party instead!   Somebody said the mosquitos here are big enough to shake hands with!!

Spot and Molly had their own doggie party.

 

 

 

The campground is right next to Tatogga lake…another beautiful mirror lake, and there is a seaplane dock right next to us.

We leave tomorrow for Stewart-Hyder, where we will be for three days.  I’ll save the story about this place for tomorrow’s blog.

Baby Nugget RV Park–Junction 37

Day 76 – Tuesday, August 27

We bought a license plate to commemorate our trip to Alaska—we thought this was pretty appropriate!

 

Today we arrived at the Junction of the  Alaska Highway with the Cassiar Highway, and will stay tonight at the Baby Nugget RV Park.  This is just west of Watson Lake, where we visited the signpost forest and left our sign on July 20—more than 30 days ago!  It was a short 2 1/2 hour drive here today from Teslin, with rain on and off.  But, the sun finally came out to warm us up and ignite another happy hour!

The Cassiar Highway connects the Yellowhead Highway to the Alaska Highway.  It’s funny because even though the highways have numbers, they are better known by their names.  The Cassiar Highway is BC Hwy 37, and we are at the starting point of the highway.  This is a “newer” highway 450 miles long, a 2-lane road completed in 1972, but services along the highway are scarce, so we’ve been warned to be sure we have fuel as we go through this stretch.  It is also known for good wildlife watching.

The Baby Nugget RV Park is small, but has a great restaurant “Wolf it Down”. We wanted to visit the gift shop which advertised a lot of native arts and crafts, but the owner was gone for a blood test and hasn’t returned the rest of the day, so we don’t know if she just skipped out for the rest of the day, or maybe is still waiting for her blood test to come back.  (That gives an idea of the size of the town!)

It was a mild activity day, as we are all preparing for the final week of the caravan.  We will say our final goodbyes and depart after breakfast just a week from today!

Spot got in trouble for the first time in a long time.  When we came back after happy hour, we found he had jumped up on the counter and ate a bowl of chicken and rice!   He has never done that before, and we were all surprised he would do such a thing!  We think he has been talking to some of the other dogs in the campground and gotten ideas –his doggie friend Leisel had almond bark today, so we think that is the source of the bad influence!

Back in the Yukon

Day 75, Monday, August 26

Today we travelled to Teslin in the Yukon Territory.   It was about a 4 hour drive.  We spent the first 30 miles behind a double tanker truck that didn’t believe in pulling over for faster vehicles.  But, that made it nice when we got to the border, because there was nobody in front of us!   Another easy crossing into Canada, and we told the customs agent that we were on the last leg of our trip, and headed home through Canada.  The clouds parted enough for us to view some beautiful scenery. The roads were decent, making it a pleasant drive.  The lakes were calm and we got some wonderful pictures of the mirror effect.  I even caught an eagle flying in the midst of the beauty!

We are staying in the Yukon Motel and RV Park (we stopped here about a month ago when we passed through on the way up to Alaska).  Jim was thrilled because satellite is back!   And, when we tuned it in, the NFL network was replaying the Colts game!   The Colts looked great (sorry Cleveland cousins, the Browns didn’t do so hot.)

Teslin has one of the largest Native populations in Yukon Territory.  We went to the George Johnston museum—Johnston was a Tlingit Indian who preserved history about the lives of the Tlingits through photographs. J&K (daughter and son in law) would have loved the old cameras on display.  He was also responsible for bringing the first car to Teslin, (a 1928 Chevrolet) and the actual car is on display at the museum.  The car was brought over by one of the paddleboats (the Keno which we saw in Dawson City), and was driven across a frozen river to Teslin, 13 years before the Alaska highway was built.  Johnston would paint the car white during the winter as camouflage when he went hunting so the car would blend in with the ice and snow.  Quite an interesting story about an interesting and innovative man.

Tonight we had an impromptu happy hour, and wished we’d saved the firewood we had to dump before going through customs, because it is a beautiful evening, and perfect campfire weather. 

 

 

Our Texas friends (the ones without hot water who have to use the campground showers this whole trip) made everyone laugh when they came out in their “spa robes” for the travel briefing. 

Tomorrow we continue to travel south…we have another 4 hour drive ahead.

PS.  Happy Birthday to brother-in-law Ted. (another year younger!)

Sunday in Skagway

Day 74 – Sunday, August 25

We took a ride on the White Pass – Yukon Railway, which is a narrow gauge railway constructed during the gold rush.  It climbs from sea level in Skagway to almost 3,000 feet at the White Pass summit.  Like the Alaska Highway, it is amazing to think about the effort it took to build such a project in harsh conditions. 

(Our conductor looked like Mr. McFeeley on Mr. Rogers’ neighborhood! )

We got to see the rv park from the railroad side. 

And it was also fun to see the highway that we travelled on to get here from a different perspective….the highway runs along one side of the river, and the railroad goes on the other.

The train route twists and turns, goes through tunnels and up and down steep hills, and over a deep gorge.  We saw the steel bridge which was the tallest cantilever bridge in the world.  It was used until 1969.  It looked like the tracks on a roller coaster!

We could look down and see the path the stampeders took to get to the goldfields before the railroad was built.  About 100,000 people headed north, but only about 30,000 reached the gold fields in the Klondike.  We found out that one of those prospectors was Donald Trump’s grandfather!! (Who would have thought???)  

 

 

We even passed the border, which was marked with flags from both countries.  But, thank goodness we didn’t have to go through customs since we didn’t get off the train. 

It was a fun and interesting train ride.

 

We went to mass at St. Therese in a small quaint church that hardly looked like a church from the outside.  The priest was travelling, so a deacon from Haines came to lead prayer and give communion.  Most of the participants were from cruise ships and rv parks…of the 25 people there, only 5 were locals!

The downtown was slow today, but we were still able to do some shopping.  One of the clerks said they normally have 3,000-5,000 people per day from the cruise ships, but today there were only about 500!!  It’s such a neat setting with the mountains in the background at the end of the street.

We finished the evening with a group dinner at the Klondike Goldfields—fried salmon (yummy!) and ribs.  We were entertained by a guy who did a few Robert Service poems which described life during the gold rush days. (Robert Service was a famous poet from the area).  Then a crusty old miner gave us a tour of a dredge, shared gold panning stories, and then we tried our luck at gold panning again.  We got a few gold flakes…no big pay dirt!

 

 

We are down to our final week of the caravan, and now begin heading south, so that we can travel on the Cassier Highway. This will be our last night in Alaska—we cross the border to Canada tomorrow, and will travel through Canada for the rest of the trip. I still can’t believe how quickly the time has passed!

Juneau and Whale Watching!

Day 73 – Saturday, August 24

Juneau is the state capital of Alaska.  But it is a bit odd…there are no roads that lead to Juneau…It is only accessible by air or by boat.  So, we made a trip to Juneau today on the Fjordland, a catamaran-type boat designed to travel in these waters.  The water is deep (about 180 feet) and COLD (about 39 degrees) because it’s fed by glacial runoff. 

It’s a long trip—it takes almost 3 hours to get from Skagway to Juneau, but there is plenty to see along the way.  We saw mountains, and fog, and huge, tall waterfalls, lighthouses, seals, eagles, glaciers…there was almost too much to look at!

When we arrived in Juneau, there were two eagles sitting on the ridge.  They flew away, and a seal by the dock watched as people took pictures of the majestic birds! 

Juneau was a fun place…lots of shops and good places to eat, with fresh fish from the area.  After a great lunch at the Twisted Fish, we stopped at the Red Dog Saloon (a recommendation from Mom).  It was a fun place with sawdust on the floor and lots of fun decorations, and good beer! 

We didn’t have enough time to scour all the shops, but were successful in covering several and finding a few things to bring home.  We had to meet the bus for a trip to Mendenhall Glacier, another beautiful glacier in a beautiful setting.  

At the base of the glacier was water and trails around the area.  We went down a short trail along a salmon stream, and saw pink salmon running upstream, and a bear enjoying the delicacy.  After eating his share, the bear climbed a tree and took a nap…it was pretty neat to see.

The glacier was huge, and there was a huge waterfall next to it.  There were pieces of ice that had broken off the glacier floating along the water.  A pretty incredible sight!

But, the best of all was the whale watching on the trip back to Skagway.  Our captain seemed to know right where to go to see the group of whales.   At first we saw the spouts of water spraying up out of the water; then we saw the backs of the whales, and then they began arching up out of the water, and then the tail would flip up.   Once they dove, it would be about 3-5 minutes before they surfaced again.  It was very exciting because you didn’t know quite where they would come up next.   Once somebody spotted a spout, they would yell, and everyone would go to the side of the boat to see it.  A couple of times, they came up very close to the boat.  They are HUGE mammals.  It was quite a spectacular sight, and was the grand finale of the trip today.

The Captain got a round of applause for finding the whales!   On the ride back, everyone was comparing pictures and videos, and talking about the exciting display we had just seen from the amazing whales.   

As we entered the port, there were two cruise ships anchored, probably getting ready for their shopping day tomorrow! 

It was a long day, but full of activity, and the whales were certainly worth it.