Angry Elephant

 Wednesday, March 15, 2023

What a full day of adventure today!  We started with breakfast at 6am, then loaded the bus for a trip to Chobe National Park in Botswanna.  Just getting there was quite an adventure!

We crossed the Kazungula bridge which connects Zambia and Botswana, over the Zambezi River.  The bridge is a road and rail bridge that was recently built (completed in 2021) and replaced a ferry that would transport trucks across the river. 

Trucks would often had to wait 2 weeks to get across the river!  There is a point in the river where the Zambezi and Chobe rivers meet called the Quadripoint, where four countries meet...Zambia, Botswanna, Namibia and Zimbabwe. (sounds like 4 corners in New Mexico!)  I'm learning a lot about geography on this trip.

Along the way we  saw several groups of kids on their way to school  looking spiffy in their uniforms.  Our driver explained that schools are free for grades 1-12, but students must buy their books and uniforms.  I don't think there are school buses...everyone walks here.

Because we were leaving Zambia and entering Botswanna, we had to go through several checkpoints once again.  The first stop was a stop to "clean" our shoes.  The bus drove over some cleaning bumps with disinfectant to clean the tires.  Then, everyone had to get off the bus and step into a pan with a sponge-like thing soaked in disinfectant.  This is to prevent people bringing in hoof and mouth disease and contaminating the animals...kind of weird.  I hope the soles of our shoes don't deteriorate! 

We all got back on the bus, and travelled a short distance to the health checkpoint to show our covid vaccination cards. Apparently in the past there was also a temperature check, but not this year.

Back on the bus again, then off to immigration.  At least this time it was in one building; one side was clearance to exit Zambia and the other side to enter Botswanna.  More stamps on the passport! Once we all made it through, we loaded up on safari vehicles for a safari drive through Chobe National Park.

Chobe was the first national park in Botswanna.  It was originally created as a game reserve in 1960 and then declared a national park in 1967 when Botswanna became independent and the land was transferred to the government.  

Our guide Marcus treated us to coffee and tea before we entered the park. 

Chobe is very different from the other national parks we've seen here.  It is very rugged, with no paved roads.  

It is also a park with free movement...there are no fences around the park like there are in other parks, so the animals can wander into the town, or across the river to another country!

Chobe is known for a large elephant population and we saw a bunch of them up close and personal.  There were lots of little ones (but I don't think any elephant is little).

Jim taking a picture--it shows how close they were!

A variety of animals came out to greet us, even though it was a hot day.

The Chobe River creates a riverfront area, with sandy beach that attracts the wildlife, and provided some great viewing opportunities for us as we drove along the river.  The animals come to the river for water.

We saw lots of hippos--some snoozing in the river, others eating and others just wandering about.

The birds were plentiful; I stopped trying to remember what they are.

 The highlight of the day was a true safari experience.  As we came around a bend, there was a huge bull elephant in the middle of the road.

  There were several females around, and some smaller elephants too.  The big guy was obviously agitated,   Our guide explained that he was in musth (in heat).   Signs of this biological condition are irregular behavior and aggression, secretion around the face (we could see white gook) and constant urination or seminal secretion. (we could see that too!)   We could also smell a unique odor. (wonder how that's how men's scent "Musk" came about?) The elephant was standing in the middle of the road, and as we inched forward to try to pass, he began to come directly toward us like he was going to charge.  I was a bit scared--this guy was enormous, and obviously not very happy!  

Our vehicle backed up, and he continued toward us. Another vehicle (others from our group) lined up right beside us, revved the engines, and both vehicles inched forward together, creating a standoff with the elephant. The two vehicles advancing together looked threatening coming toward him. 

The females and young elephants ran off, and the  big elephant began backing off.  He finally retreated, but cursed at us with a big trumpet call, and ran off.  

It was really unbelievable to see this unfold.  Our guides were so cool about it, and handled it professionally.  I do have to say it was scary, but an experience I'll never forget and gave us all something to talk about for the rest of the day.  Hope that bull elephant gets what he's after!

After the safari drive, we had lunch on a boat that cruised around the Chobe River. Our guide Marcus from the game drive earlier in the day was also the captain of the boat and pointed out animals and sights along the way.

Check out the crocodile hanging with the elephants.

This huge croc was waiting for the Kudu, and we thought we were going to see some action, but the Kudu saw him before it was too late.

After the elephant charge I think we saw enough wildlife action for one day!

Here's an elephant cooling off in the late afternoon.

There are so many more pictures to share.  Words can't explain how amazing it is to see all of these animals.  

After returning to the hotel, we all met in the bar and we were able to facetime with our Tennessee friends who had to leave the trip early.   It was good to see Chris smiling, and Ken ended up buying everyone a drink!  How special that we were all able to see each other one more time before the trip ends.